PIGMENT PROFILES: JESSICA JAY OF REPARATION STUDIO
For this instalment of Pigment Profiles, It’s an absolute pleasure to introduce you to Jessica Jay of Reparation Studio.
Jess has a wonderfully unique approach to visible mending, which breathes fresh life into existing garments. Working under the name Reparation Studio, Jess offers a modern and creative approach to garment alterations, repairs, bespoke and sampling services from her centrally based studio in Tāmaki Makaurau.
Jess in her studio shot by Anya Konstantine Baranova
What/who inspires you and your work?
I am primarily inspired by my lifelong passion for clothing and textiles. My practice is informed by a desire to create beautiful garments without producing waste or contributing to local and global textile waste. This thought process inspired me to focus my skills and energy on the longevity of garments through repairs and alterations.
Describe the creative process/es you follow. Does it change from project to project?
My process always begins with working closely with my clients and their garments. Every person and garment has their own unique personality and beauty so my processes and techniques are broad to cater to this.
Each project starts out with a consult (preferably in person) to establish the practical needs, aesthetic preferences and personal style of the client. I then like to spend as much time as I can analysing the garment(s). During this phase, I familiarize myself with the specific textures and quirks of the repair or alteration at hand. Every garment is different, so this is always challenging, and keeps me on my toes. For repairs, I then consult further with my client, to determine the possible outcomes and 'vibe' of the repair. The end goal is always to create a repair or alteration which results in longevity and joy for the garment and client.
What got you interested in garment alterations/repair?
My experiences working in the local fashion industry exposed me to some of the alarming issues that we face locally and globally regarding fashion, climate change and textile waste. To cut a long story short, I became very jaded very quickly working for conventional designers/brands. I realised that, as much as I love the creativity, problem solving and technical side of fashion, my morals and values did not sit well in a conventional industry setting. I believe that repairs and alterations were a natural progression for my hands-on approach to problem solving. My practice is a joyous amalgamation of complex feelings towards the fashion industry as it currently operates. Reparation Studio has provided me with a perfect blend of values, skills and creativity.
Who are some people whose work/processes interest you?
This is constantly in flux and evolving! Currently my top three are:
Celia Pym, Visible Mending QUEEN.
Louise Bourgeois, especially regarding her textile works.
& FKA Twigs who I see as an all-around creative genius and Capricorn femme after my own heart.
How do you move past a creative block?
Getting back to basics and creating just for the sake of it. I love to journal - this reminds me of my values and goals both personally and professionally. Getting stuck in with a piece of fabric and some thread and stitching without the pressure of a formal project always gives me time to think, practice and come up with new techniques and ideas. I feel blessed to have a practice that lends itself to moments of stillness and meditation. I believe that this creates head space for creativity to flourish and prevents blockages!
What struggles have you faced pursuing a creative career? What advice would you give to others looking to explore their creative outlets?
I would like to acknowledge firstly, as a Pākehā, cis-gendered woman, with a tertiary education and a supportive network of family and friends, I operate from a position of privilege. I prefer the term challenge to struggle for this reason! For me personally, the biggest challenge working in the creative industry has been maintaining a healthy work/life balance and looking after my mental health alongside my work. This is an ongoing challenge for me as I find it all too easy to bury myself in my work and forget the importance of rest along the way. My advice, is to look after yourself. Burn out is not cute and takes a lot of time to recover from. Switch off and make time for yourself wherever possible. Learn how to budget, and manage your time wisely would be my other two pieces of advice (I should learn to follow these myself!).
Currently listening to (podcasts, music, audiobooks):
Albums: Tension (Kylie Minogue), The Land is Inhospitable and So Are We (Mitski), Come on Over (Shania Twain), and Mama's Gun (Erykah Badu).
Podcasts: Wardrobe Crisis with Clare Press, Articles of Interest, Gayotic with Muna and Table Manners.
Top 5 (products, places, food, activities etc.):
Kawakawa Balm
Beer
Getting up to general nonsense with my chosen family
70's B Horror Films
Grounding time at my family home in Te Tai Tokerau
Best pieces of advice:
Be your own Mother
&
Get a Life.
Find Jess on Instagram @re_______studio
and at reparationstudio.com